White Footed Ant
Elimination and Control Measures
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Once White-Footed Ants have infested a structure, it is doubtful that they will ever be
totally eliminated from the building. We can, however, implement measures to keep
existing infestations manageable and help un-infested homes from being invaded.
If you live in an area where white footed ants are a potential problem,
preventative treatments would indeed be wise. Prevention is the
best line of defense against the establishment of any pest insect.
A concentrated effort (using several different control methods) is your only chance of
getting a handle on white footed ant infestations. This effort is Integrated
Pest Management (IPM) at its best. In this section, we
|Using only one ant control method will
probably result in failure.
|Using several in concert will achieve best
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Relatively small ants, such as the white-footed ant can fit through extremely small
openings to gain access into the home. If these entry points can be located, they
can be blocked by application of caulk or some other exclusion device. This can also
help to prevent other insects from gaining access into your home.
Sanitation can also help to prevent infestation by white-footed ants, as well as other ant
species. Eliminate ant access to sugars within the home. Clean areas where food is
handled and quickly and thoroughly clean up spilled, sugar-based foods. In addition,
store food in containers with tight fitting lids. Also, eliminate potential food
sources outside, such as by controlling pests in your landscape that produce honeydew.
In addition, trim tree branches away from the structure, this will help
prevent ants within the tree from gaining access to the structure. Removal of fallen
leaves and compost piles near the structure has also proven to be an effective sanitation
procedure by removing desirable habitat.
Baiting for White Footed Ants:
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With only half of the colony foraging and feeding on outside sources, ant baits will
not eliminate white footed ant colonies. Baits are sometimes used to help reduce the
visible worker ants (those foraging in the open) inside homes -- but that is all that
baits can do. The interior half of the ant colony (which feeds on trophic eggs) are
not killed by baits because the ant bait is never transferred to them. If you desire
to bait indoors, use either Maxforce FC
Ant Bait Stations or Dual
Choice Ant Bait Stations. Outdoors, you might see white footed ants
taking a bait but (just like the indoor baiting) the colony is not being damaged to any
Eliminating Ant Mounds
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Inspect and locate any outdoor colonies on your property and eliminated them by
drenching. Drenching ant beds simply means using enough insecticide solution to the
point of where you are drowning all possible ants in the area. This method works
better than trying to kill the ant bed with sprays or spot-treating with insecticide
granules. Use the same Talstar
Concentrate that you use to spot treat indoors and broadcast outdoors. As
little as 1/4 ounce of Talstar per gallon of water is all that is necessary. A
gallon of solution is required for a mound whose base is one foot in diameter; smaller
mounds require less, large ones require more insecticide solution. When used
according to label instructions, Talstar will not leach into water supplies once it is
allowed to dry, making it very safe for the environment. Keep children and pets off
all properly treated surfaces until dry. The treated area will at that time be safe.
A combination of products and methods must be used. Indoor baits might help reduce the
population to some extent but does not really harm the colony.
It seems that the best control is to use the following:
Broadcast Talstar (granules
or concentrate) over the entire property and at least repeat application 3 times each
year. Talstar should also be
sprayed (with a pump type garden sprayer) on the exterior and interior of the structure.
On the outside, spray every possible entry point and hiding place, every little crack or
crevice where an ant (or other pests) might enter. Indoors, spray any area where ants are
most likely to encounter the material. Talstar has no odor, is less toxic
than the harsh Dursban, Diazinon, Spectracide, Rid-A-Bug type products, and gives an
incredibly long residual indoors and out. Outdoors, Talstar has been known to kill
ants for more than 2 months with one application, if applied properly.
Indoors, you must also apply an insecticide dust to any crack, crevice, hiding place,
entry point, wall void or attic -- places where ants are most likely to hide, colonize,
forage for food, etc. Delta Dust is the best insecticide dust for killing white footed ants. Delta Dust
should be used where you cannot treat with a spray and where people and pets cannot come
into contact with the material. Dusts (such as Delta Dust, Drione Dust) are very safe to
use, when applied as directed by the label.
In summary, you need:
Talstar, Delta Dust, a hose-end sprayer
for outdoors, a pump style garden sprayer
for indoors and outside surface of your home and a Crusader Duster
for applying your Delta Dust,
which is water-proof.
- Seal all possible entry points leading into your home.
- Trim branches (shrubs, trees, etc.) away from the structure.
- Remove any excess vegetation, compost or mulch if too close to the building
- Remove all possible food sources indoors (good sanitation) and outdoors (treat
for aphids, scales on plants.)
- Locate and drench all existing mounds with an approved synthetic insecticide.
Talstar is best.
- Broadcast area with Talstar
to kill foraging workers and prevent ants from migrating to your property.
- Spot-treat indoors with a low odor insecticide (Talstar is best) to kill any existing
white footed ants that forage inside your home.
- Dust all wall voids, cracks, crevices, attics (above and below insulation!),
crawl spaces. Any place where you cannot spray, where people and pets do not contact
but where ants can hide should be dusted. Delta Dust is best for killing ants,
white footed ants and other insects.
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