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Rodent Elimination, Biology

Dead Rodent Odor Elimination

Rodent Baiters Rodent Baits
Mouse Biology Roof Rats Norway Rats

This page will launch you to different links concerning the biology of common household rodents, rats, mice.  You will also find the description and ordering information of the many rodent control products (humane live traps, rat and mouse snap traps, rat glue traps, mouse glue boards, rodent baits, rat and mouse repellent) used to eliminate these pests in homes, apartments, warehouses, restaurants and other food handling establishments.

The three most common rodents sharing our households, restaurants, warehouses, barns and other buildings are the House Mouse, Norway Rat, Roof Rat.

HOUSE MOUSE
Mice Biology
Mouse control
NORWAY RAT
Norway Rat Biology
Rat control
ROOF RAT
Roof Rat Biology
Rat Control

Baits for Mice    Traps    Baits      

Mouse Elimination

There are four basic steps to implement when confronting a mouse infestation:

Inspection

Sanitation

Exclusion

Population Reduction (Traps, Baits, Repellents)

Inspection: There are ten signs that a professional should look for when conducting their initial (and follow-up) inspection: Droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors. A good inspection gives you a better idea of the size of the population and the routes taken by the rodents. As you will see in Population Reduction, you must intercept the rodents. Proper placements of baits, traps or live traps depend on your inspection!

Sanitation: In order for a large population of rodents to flourish, there has to be an abundance of food and water, as well as easy access to a cozy nesting site. By removing or reducing the factors that make any pest population abundant, you remove and reduce the pest.
Sanitation does imply that you live or work in a pig pen. Proper storage of possible rodent food, removal of undesirable vegetation (grass, weeds) and taking care of rubbish, lumber piles or old equipment are just a few examples of good sanitation practices. Homeowners must also realize that pet foods and wild bird feed are all tasty meals for rodents.

Exclusion: Controlling rats and mice by making it impossible for them to enter structures is the best way to eliminate and control indoor populations. Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. A building can be rodent proofed by eliminating all openings larger than 1/2 inch for rats and 1/4 for mice. Even after this is done, rodents can slip through open doors and windows, gain access along plumbing and other utility lines or (especially in the case of mice) be transported indoors with any merchandise. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely. Do not forget to inspect and repair air vents that may not be in sound working order.

Population Reduction: To quickly reduce the population of mice, traps and/or baits are used. In some situations, the use of toxic baits are not safe, legal or desired because of possible odors. When dealing with mice, we prefer a combination of traps and baits. Consider your building, children, pets, ability to deal with possible odors and dangers to none target animals when choosing products to eliminate your mouse problem.

  • Non-chemical control with the use of traps     

RAT ELIMINATION

The same four basic steps used in mouse elimination are used for exterminating rats:
Inspection    Sanitation    Exclusion    Population Reduction

In order for your rodent control program to be effective (as well as efficient) on a long term basis, all four basic steps should be implemented.

Inspection: 
Place close attention to droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors.  You need to know not only the paths taken by rats but also the population size, food sources, nesting sites.

Sanitation:
Remove or reduce as many of the food, water and harborage sites as possible.
Using only rat traps or rodenticides without attention to sanitation is poor integrated pest management and runs up the cost of the rat extermination job.
Pet foods and wild bird feed are easy meals for rats.  If rats have easy access to an abundance of dog food (especially at night when feeding is heaviest), they are less likely to be attracted to your rodenticides or baited traps.

Exclusion:  Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely.

Population Reduction:
Reducing the population of rats in any given area will involve killing rats with a bait or a trap.  Rats can be captured with a live trap.  Live trapping for a large population of rats usually fails.  Rats can reproduce faster than we can capture them with live traps, in areas of high numbers of rats.
Heavy rat infestations usually call for a heavy bait job.  Place at least 4 bait blocks per rodent bait station; place a bait station every 15 to 20 feet.  Inspect rodent bait stations at least 3 times per week.  IF THE RATS RUN OUT OF RODENTICIDE, THE POPULATION CAN BOUNCE BACK AT AN ALARMING RATE.

Non-chemical control with the use of traps

Chemical control with the use of rodenticides

Dead rodent odor elimination

RODENT TRAPS

BAITING FOR MICE       BAITING FOR RATS       TIPS FOR BAITING SNAP TRAPS

Tin Cat Repeating Mouse Trap -  This low profile (10 1/2" long x 6 1/2" wide  x 2 1/2" high) trap is placed lengthwise against walls where mice frequent.  Large entrance holes allow mice to enter but keeps them from escaping.  The Tin Cat requires no winding and no baits, features a see-through lid for easy inspection, and is a favorite for homeowners, food plants, grocery stores and warehouses.  Will hold up to 30 mice.
Click here to order

Victor Mouse Snap Trap - We carry only the expanded trigger, professional model snap trap.  The expanded trigger not only gives better sensitivity for those "picky eaters," it allows you a greater range of baits.  More surface area means you now have the ability to "smear" baits (such as peanut butter or chocolate) in thin layers for more positive catches.  With the expanded trigger, it is not always necessary to bait the trap.  Traps placed across runways are tripped simply when the rodents walk across the pedals.  But to save time, use bait!
Individual Mouse Traps

Mouse Trap Case

Victor Rat Snap Trap - Same as above (mouse trap), but large enough to kill rats. Always use snap traps in sets of two or three per placement.  This will insure that the rat hits the "business end" of one of your traps.  If a rat hits the wrong end of your snap trap (setting off the mechanism without harming the rodent) you will be left with an empty trap and a wiser rodent who will probably become "trap shy."
Individual Rat Traps

Rat Trap case

NEW, BETTER RAT TRAP:   T-Rex Rat Trap

Mouse Master -  This repeating mouse trap has a clear lid for easy inspection and a wind-up mechanism which flips the mice into an escape proof box.  An important tool in mouse control for many years, the Mouse Master and Catch All repeating wind-up traps can hold many mice with one setting.  The mice can be released safely in the wild or disposed of by immersing in water before emptying the trap.
Click here to order

Humane Live Trap : :   Rat and chipmunk trap. 18x5x5 with 3 LB shipping weight.  This humane live trap allows you to capture rats, chipmunks or small squirrels without the use of rodenticides.  The absence of toxic baits not only creates a safer environment for children and pets, it also means you have no odors from hidden carcasses!
Click here to order

GLUE TRAPS

In many circumstances, glue traps (or glue boards, as they are called in the pest control industry) are employed in rodent elimination and maintenance.  In areas where food is commercially prepared, the use of rodenticides is unsafe and against federal law.  Glue traps are safe to use in homes, apartments, restaurants, hospitals, pet shops, day care centers, nursing homes and food preparation areas.  Many pest control operators prefer using glue traps in conjunction with their rodenticide program.  This captures many of the rodent pests before they die, giving a better chance of finding more carcasses before they begin to decompose and create odors.   Place traps in path of rodents, intercepting them between their nesting site and food source.

Mouse Glue Boards:  To use, simply peel paper from trap to expose glue, then place trap in areas frequented by mice, lizards, or any small pests you wish to capture.
Order Mouse Glue Board

Rat Glue Trays:   Non-poisonous traps for capturing rats, mice and reptiles.   Simply place glue boards in areas where pests are known to frequent.  The use of glue traps enables you to control pests without toxic baits and poisons that can harm pets and children.  2 Traps per pack @ $4.00 per pack.
Order Rat Glue Trays

Click here to order case of 48 Rat Glue Trays

MaxCatch:   (Catchmaster 24GRB)  This giant (18" x 10 1/2") rat glue board is excellent for capturing rats, mice, snakes and other reptiles.  The flexible form of the MaxCatch Glue Trap makes it ideal for situations requiring an irregular shaped glue board.  Can be folded and can also be cut to fit difficult areas.
Order individual Maxcatch glue boards

Order Case of Maxcatch glue boards

BAITING TECHNIQUES FOR MICE 

BAITING TECHNIQUES FOR RATS

RODENTICIDE CATALOG

RODENT TRAPS

Rodenticides

Fastrac Bait Packs (replaces Vengeance)

Maki Paraffin Blocks   Maki Bait Packs          

 Talon Weather Blok   

Mouse Bait   Live Mouse Traps 


Maki Bait Packs - (a.i. Bromadiolone) Maki pellets contain the world's most advanced single-feeding anticoagulant - Bromadiolone  Bait shyness is not a problem because a single low dose is most often lethal, producing dead rodents in an average of three to five days after treatment.  Maki place packs are extremely effective against Norway (including Warfarin resistant), roof rats and house mice.   It can be used in and around residential and commercial  buildings.  Maki is USDA approved for use in federally inspected food plants.  The labeled packs (each containing 1.5 ounces Maki pellets) are advantageous in areas where regular service access is difficult.  The active ingredient - Bromadiolone - is less hazardous to non-target animals than Brodifacoum.  Maki bait packs can be purchased individually or in a 100 count case.
Order Maki Bait Packs.

Maki Paraffin Blocks - (a.i. Bromadiolone)  Kills Norway rats, Roof rats, house mice and Warfarin resistant Norway rats.  Packaged in one pound package that easily breaks up into eight blocks.   Each block is formed to encourage rodents to consume more bait in a single feeding.   Available in single one pound package and case of ten one pound packages.   Click here to order Maki Blocks

Talon Weather Blok - (a.i. Brodifacoum) For control of Norway rats, Roof rats and House mice in and around sewers, homes, industrial, commercial, agricultural and public buildings.  Rodents may consume a lethal dose in one feeding with first dead rodents appearing four or five days after treatment begins.  Weather Blok may also be used in and around transport vehicles (ships, trains, aircraft) and related port or terminal buildings.  Weather Blok must be placed in tamper resistant bait stationsor in locations not accessible to children, pets, domestic animals or wildlife such as burrows which are then closed.  
Click here to order Talon Weather Blok

Fastrac Bait Packs -  (Same as Vengeance) (a.i. Bromethalin) Kills Norway Rats, Roof Rats, and House Mice.  Rats and Mice consume a lethal dose in a single feeding with dead rodents appearing two to three days after treatment begins.  Rodents cease feeding after consuming a lethal dose in a single night's feeding.  Fastrac bait is effective against anticoagulant-resistant rats and mice.
Order Fastrac Bait Pack Pellets     Order Fastrac Bait Blox Rodenticide


BAITING FOR MICE:

Never Use Rodenticide Bait Inside Your House If You Have A Young Child Or Dog That Could Possibly Come In Contact With Your Bait!

  • Proper placement of baits and the distance between placements is critically important.  Where there is an abundance of food, it is especially important to place baits 8 - 12 feet apart.  This will help insure that you intercept the mouse between its harborage and possible food sources. 

  • Another useful tip is to make use of tamper resistant rodent bait stations.  Bait stations provide attractive feeding locations for mice and encourages more mice to consume more bait in a shorter time period.  They also keep your bait dry and free of dust and debris.

  • Place your baits in areas where there is evidence of mouse activity.

  • Remember that your mice live in a multi-dimensional world.  They could be above their food source (attics, cabinets, etc.) or below (basements, crawl spaces, lower floors of a building, sub floors, etc.)

  • Mice are not attracted to old, insect infested or moldy bait.   Inspect often and replace or move undesirable baits.  Use a Protecta Mouse Bait Station to keep bait fresh longer.

  • Making many placements (each containing small amounts) is an important key to successfully baiting mice. 


BAITING FOR RATS: 

Never use rat baits inside your home if you have a young child or pet that could possibly come in contact with your bait!

  • Although they will readily consume bait pellets, rats most often prefer bait blocks.  The shape of bait blocks being used by professionals is more attractive to rats and encourages them to consume more bait in a single feeding.  Blocks also repel moisture better than pellets or meal.  This is very important when placing bait in burrows, under buildings, in sewers, in basements or any area frequented by rats.

  • Try to intercept the rats, placing baits between their possible harborage and food source.

  • Rat baits should be placed 15 feet apart.

  • Place baits in rat harborage such as burrows and ground voids.

  • Rats (especially Roof Rats) could be living above or below their food source.  Use this knowledge to properly place baits between the rodent pest and his food.

  • To encourage rats to eat more of your bait, place rodenticides in tamper resistant bait stations.  Not only will this give the rat a cozy place to "pig-out" on your bait, it also keeps your bait fresh and attractive to rodents.

  • Never under-feed the population!  An adult rat can consume an ounce of bait per day.  This means that a dominant rat will readily eat all that he can, and then hoard the rest of the bait from two or more bait stations, giving the rest of the population a chance to breed faster than you can kill them!

  • Inspect your bait placements on a regular basis.  Not only can you run out of bait prematurely, your bait might also be contaminated by moisture or accidentally moved out of position.  Protecta bait stations will keep bait fresh longer.

  • Once you have placed your rodenticides in their proper stations and locations, avoid moving any objects in the baited area.  The rats need time to adjust to anything new in their environment, so do not "rearrange the furniture!"

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